Why Your Raw Files Look Nothing Like the Real Thing

Flat raw files after a stunning rainbow shoot are one of the most deflating moments in landscape photography. What you saw in the field and what your camera recorded are two different things, and knowing how to close that gap is a skill worth building.

Coming to you from William Patino Photography, this practical video follows Patino into the field on a windy morning as he chases a rainbow, trying to line it up over a lone tree using a 10mm lens wide enough to capture the full arc. The field work is brief by design since the wind was brutal and the light window was narrow. Patino shoots at 1/160 to 1/200 of a second to keep the grass from blurring, gets low to build depth in the foreground, and watches carefully to keep the rainbow from clipping the top of the tree. The scene delivers, but the raw files tell a different story when he gets home.

That gap between memory and raw file is exactly what the processing section addresses. Patino starts by showing just how flat the untouched file looks, then rebuilds color methodically using a landscape profile in Camera Raw as a starting point, followed by a vibrance boost in the 5 to 30 range (landing around 25 here) and a restrained saturation push of around 15. His reasoning on saturation is worth noting: sunrise and sunset tones are already rich, so pushing too hard means losing data. The goal throughout is revealing what was captured, not inventing what wasn't.

From there, Patino moves into color grading using the HSL wheels to push the warm highlights toward yellow-orange and cool the midtones slightly, creating the kind of warm-cool contrast that made the scene compelling in the first place. He holds shift while dragging the saturation circle outward to stay locked on the hue he wants, a small technique detail that keeps the edit precise. Because the highlight grading is global, it hits the foreground and midground naturally, which keeps the image looking coherent rather than artificially graded. The adjustment brush work is where it gets more nuanced, with local exposure lifts in the background to draw the eye toward the tree and rainbow, a darkened sky edge using the dehaze slider for midtone contrast, and a highlight and white lift through the grass to separate it tonally from the rest of the frame. One thing Patino is consistent about: he saves the file as a PSD smart object and comes back to it later with fresh eyes before calling it done. Check out the video above for the full breakdown of Patino's field technique and complete processing walkthrough.

Alex Cooke is a Cleveland-based photographer and meteorologist. He teaches music and enjoys time with horses and his rescue dogs.

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2 Comments

If you photograph in RAW,,, you know why.. For me RAW is a back up if I am not happy with JPEG.

There's an easy solution: Use a Fuji camera set to JPG+RAW. :-)
In the rare case the JPG isn't what you wanted, you can still go the long way described here.