24-70mm vs. 70-200mm: Which Zoom Should You Buy First?

Choosing between a 24-70mm and a 70-200mm zoom is one of the most common lens decisions you'll face when building a kit. Both are professional staples, both are genuinely useful, and neither obviously replaces the other.

Coming to you from The Bergreens, this practical video walks through exactly how these two lenses differ and, more usefully, which type of shooter is better served by each one. The 24-70mm f/2.8 is what Bergreen calls the "workhorse" — the lens that handles travel, events, weddings, landscapes, and video without asking you to change glass between moments. It covers wide environmental shots through short portrait focal lengths, which makes it the default choice when you can't predict what's coming next. The tradeoff is that images shot on it can start to feel a little generic over time, especially once you've seen what the longer end of a 70-200mm can do.

The 70-200mm operates on different logic entirely. Its real strength isn't reach; it's compression and subject isolation. Backgrounds feel closer, frames feel cleaner, and your subject separates from the scene in a way that's harder to achieve at shorter focal lengths. Bergreen points out that this lens is especially useful when you want to stay back and let moments unfold naturally, which matters for candid work, outdoor portraits, and weddings. It's bigger, heavier, and usually more expensive, but the look it produces is distinct in a way the 24-70mm simply isn't.

One of the more useful parts of the video is the breakdown of f/2.8 versus f/4 across both lenses. Bergreen uses the 24-70mm f/2.8 for flexibility across varied shooting conditions, but opted for a lighter 70-200mm f/4 to lean on an 85mm prime in low light. The f/4 versions are lighter and less expensive, and if you're mostly shooting outdoors in daylight, they're completely workable. But doubling your ISO to compensate for the slower aperture has a real impact on noise, and that's worth factoring in based on how capable your camera body is in low light. Bergreen also makes a point that's easy to overlook: renting or buying used before committing is worth doing, because how a lens feels on your camera in practice tells you more than any spec sheet.

Check out the video above for the full breakdown from Bergreen, including specific recommendations based on shooting style and the f/2.8 vs. f/4 decision.

Alex Cooke is a Cleveland-based photographer and meteorologist. He teaches music and enjoys time with horses and his rescue dogs.

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4 Comments

For most photographers those (namely the 24-105) are far from affordable. Honestly, a 24-70 on an APS-C sensor would be perfect.

That would be 36-105 EFL. On 35mm format, you're looking at Tamron's new 35-100/2.8. I don't think that's wide enough to use as an only lens.

In my experience the 70-200 if on FF, and the 24-70 on APS-C for general shutterbugs. If you are a sports photographer, 70-200 all the way.